Many types of insects, molds, fungi, and diseases can attack marijuana plants. The good news is marijuana foliar spraying protects your marijuana plants.
Marijuana foliar spraying is also used to feed cannabis plants through their leaves.
Here are insider tips and tactics on marijuana foliar spraying…
Start With Reverse Osmosis or Distilled Water. Reverse osmosis or distilled water is the cleanest water you can use for marijuana foliar spray.
If you use tap water, well water, or rainwater, you’re leaving various compounds on your marijuana leaves that aren’t good for them.
Use the Proper pH, PPM, and Temperature: For maximum efficiency and for deterring leaf problems, your marijuana foliar spray should be pH 5.7. Don’t go higher than 220 parts per million.
Ensure the marijuana foliar spray water is between 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Use A Surfactant: A surfactant makes your marijuana foliar spray far more penetrating. The only organic surfactant engineered for marijuana is Wet Betty.
Use Potassium Silicate In Your Marijuana Foliar Spray: Not only is potassium silicate an essential plant nutrient, it protects leaves and helps marijuana plants resist drought, stress, pests, diseases.
Potassium silicate strengthens and armors plant tissues. It makes stronger roots and resin glands.
The only hydroponics potassium silicate product made for marijuana is Rhino Skin.
NEVER use Eagle 20, AVID, or Other Dangerous Chemicals in Your Marijuana Foliar Spray: According to a lawsuit filed in Colorado, a major commercial cannabis grower sprayed the fungicide Eagle 20 on thousands of marijuana plants.
The lawsuit includes evidence that when you smoke marijuana crops sprayed with Eagle 20, you inhale poison.
The fact is, marijuana foliar spray stays on your plants.
If you’ve used systemic chemicals in your marijuana foliar sprays, the chemicals stay in your plants for a long time.
Especially if you use marijuana foliar spray more than three weeks into bloom phase, you’ll be smoking whatever you spray.
I realize that some manufacturers claim their products are safe for spraying on fruiting plants and vegetables, but they’re not saying their products are safe for spraying on a crop that’s meant to be smoked.
Only Use Marijuana Foliar Spray When Lights Are Off: Droplets of water magnify light and can burn leaves.
That’s why you do marijuana foliar spraying an hour before your grow lights go on, so the spray is dry and the nutrients are absorbed ahead of time.
Marijuana Foliar Spray Recipe: In grow phase, I use equal parts Rhino Skin, B-52, and Wet Betty.
In the first three weeks of bloom phase, I use equal parts Rhino Skin, Bud Ignitor, and Wet Betty.
Remember to pH adjust to 5.7, and no more than 220 parts per million.
After the first three weeks of bloom phase, my marijuana foliar spray is only reverse osmosis water.
I do that spraying to keep the leaves clean so they can breathe easier.
I don’t do it in high humidity situations or after buds are dense and thick, because the dampness can cause gray mold (botrytis) and other problems.
Spider Mites, Powdery Mildew, Thrips & Aphids: There are specific interventions if you have plagues of spider mites, powdery mildew, thrips, aphids and other pests or diseases.
The final three things I want to share with you about marijuana foliar spraying are these:
Use a high-quality sprayer. I recommend this one.
The best way to protect your marijuana plants isn’t by spraying poisons. It’s by making your cannabis grow room into a fortress so spider mites, thrips, aphids, powdery mildew spores, gray mold, and other attackers never get in.
Marijuana foliar spraying for nutritional purposes is a great way to quickly deliver small doses of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, along with B vitamins, into your plants.
Marijuana foliar spraying can’t take the place of root feeding, but it can assist root feeding, especially if your plants are stressed and need a direct delivery of basic nutrients.