Marijuana bloom phase can be hacked to give you more potency and heavier harvests.
It can also be hacked via incremental harvesting so you get many more types of highs from the same plants when compared to harvesting once at the end of bloom phase.
Read more about that here.
Marijuana bloom phase hacks exploit your plants’ genetic and adaptive tendencies.
They’re not one size fits all, so experiment to see how they work for the cannabis strains you grow.
In most cases, not only will these hacks work to increase the amount and range of cannabinoids and terpenoids your buds contain, but also to increase harvest weight.
Side benefits include reduced grow op costs, faster maturation, more taste and scent, higher bud quality, and more harvests per year.
Let’s look at the hacks:
Higher Temperatures Day/Lower Temperatures Night
Ideal lights-on marijuana bloom phase temperature in doors is 74-75°F
With added grow room C02 you can go as high as 85°F lights-on.
Some cannabis strains, especially those with lots of tropical Sativa or Haze genetics, can handle 77°F without C02 and 86-87°F with C02.
Starting 3-4 weeks into bloom phase, you want your lights-off temps to be at 5-8 degrees cooler than your lights on temps but it’s better to have lights-off temps around 66°F no matter what your lights-on temperatures are.
Temperature control like this for many strains forces flowers to mature faster with more resin formation.
Keep relative humidity steady no higher than 57-64%, and no lower than 50%.
Be aware that some strains can’t tolerate high temperatures even if you’re giving them C02.
This includes many autoflowering strains.
The perfect situation is to combine added C02 with higher ambient grow room temperatures as specified above, and nutrients water chilled to 66-67°F.
I do 2-3 days of higher than average temperatures at a time, making sure my plants have plenty of water and nutrients.
Then I go back to regular temperatures for 7 days at a time, then back to higher temperatures for 2-3 days, and cycle my plants like that until 2 weeks before flushing.
Use More Light Wavelengths, Including UV and Infrared
High intensity Discharge lighting (HID) is still the standard, with the very hot double-ended HPS bulbs seen as a new gold standard for marijuana bloom phase in full size grow ops.
LEDs like those made by Lush Lighting have a far more comprehensive spectrum including ultraviolet (UV) and infrared, and give you spectrum you can only get using HID grow lights if you have combo lighting such as a 1000-watt HPS and a 600-watt metal halide (MH) in bloom phase.
The main thing is to not rely only on red-dominant HPS during marijuana bloom.
Add blue-dominant light from a quality metal halide bulb such as the 1000/600-watt HPS-dominant combo described earlier.
Shorter Days, Longer Nights
Especially with landrace Sativa or Sativa-dominant strains, if you go to 11.5 hours of lights-on and 12.5 hours of lights-off, you get faster finishing, just as much potency, and savings in electricity, water, and nutrients.
With some Sativa strains, you have to go to more than 12 hours of darkness per 24 hour period just to force your plants to flower and finish.
Targeted Feed Cycles & Mini-Flushes
There are benefits to feeding single doses of solo nutrients or supplements, rather than using hydroponics base nutrients every time you feed.
For example, if you have a strain that’s supposed to go 9 weeks in marijuana bloom phase, try targeted feeding and flushes as follows…
At week four, do a mini-flush using pure reverse osmosis water to take the place of one feed cycle.
For the next feed cycle, use your hydroponics base fertilizer at one/half strength, while using Bud Candy and Bud Factor X at full strength, and no other ferts.
At week six, do another mini-flush.
For the next feed cycle after that, use your hydroponics base at one half strength, Bud Candy and Bud Factor X at full strength, and Nirvana at half strength, and no other ferts.
One feed cycle before flushing, feed with only B-52 vitamin booster.
Gotta be careful how you do drought stress.
Depriving your plants of water just enough to overdry the root zone is the goal, but not enough so you create wilting.
Wilting is almost always a sign that your plants are being damaged.
Drought stress triggers plants to generate better roots, more resins, and earlier maturation.
I only do this in peak bloom, and never at the same time as I’m running higher grow room temperatures.
Move Around Your Marijuana Bloom Phase Plants
If possible, move your marijuana bloom phase plants in a rotation so they occupy all positions in your grow set-up.
No matter if you have light movers or side lighting, you’ll get more light penetration and more evenness of floral development if your plants get light from every position in the line-up.
Feed Carbohydrates on Day One of Flush
Adding a carbohydrate booster on day one of final flushing helps your marijuana bloom phase plants have energy during flushing, but the marijuana bloom phase carbo formula Bud Candy only has a little magnesium on board, so it doesn’t interfere with the flush.
The carbos will fuel resin and harvest weight production, even during flushing.
These marijuana bloom phase hacks are easy to do and will give you visibly great results while saving you money and time!